Pablo & Judi Kauffman

Last Thursday was Corpus Christi day in Spain. In Granada, this is the day they take out of the Cathedral the huge, golden “monstrance,” given to the city by Queen Isabel some 500 yrs. ago, place the “host” in it and parade it through the streets of the city. The host, according to Catholic beliefs, is the literal body of Christ, so it’s an important event. People sit (or stand) for hours in advance to see it.


Some get birds-eye views!

The procession begins with a reminder of the Reconquest of Spain, which ended in 1492 with the conquest of Granada. The huge effigies of the Catholic king and queen are followed by the Muslim ruler and his wife.

Then there a few “fun” things, including these big-headed figures who come along and bop people on the head with a rubber ball,

soldiers shouldering antiquated muskets,

and the fife and drum section, to keep everyone in time (sort of ).

Then comes the more serious part, with the seminary students,

A brass section with old, high-pitched trumpets played on their sides,

And a whole host of ordinary people, members of the Catholic brotherhoods called cofradías. These people are the movers and shakers of maintaining these traditions.

Following are more seminary students,

Then young boys, maybe altar boys (I can’t imagine them being this pious for very long!)

And a group of parish priests.

Finally, the main part of the procession appears. High above the elaborate float is the golden monstrance holding the “host’” the wafer (the body of Christ), partly hidden behind a red cross (sign for a pharmacy). Notice the flower petals strewn down from high-up onlookers.

Along the way, the procession stops to pay homage at altars like this one (which, incidentally, got first place in the altar contest).

Of course, there’s cleanup afterwards of the hay-like grass that is strewn along the path of the procession. It’s put there for a reason, of which we don’t yet know.

The streets of the city are kept clean at all times by these workers in florescent green uniforms.

The Corpus Christi procession is only part of the activities of the week-long Granada Fair, situated on the outskirts of the city. This would rival the Ohio State Fair, without all the animal and craft exhibits. Plenty to eat (how about an ear of sweet corn for 4 bucks!) along with try-your skill (luck) booths, rides, and loads of 3-D tents (dining, drinking and dancing).

During the week there are other exhibits throughout the city. Wherever people gather you’ll find entertainers of all types. How about in Granada, Spain, seeing Otavalan Indians from Ecuador, dressed in North American Indian costumes and playing North American Indian music on their Andean pan pipes (a quarter-tone lower than the accompaniment track, I might add!)?

At other places in the city you’ll see these “statues,” people who paint themselves up like a statue and “freeze” until someone drops a coin into a basket, whereupon they gyrate a bit before “freezing” again. I’m not sure who this guy is – a thin version of a young Einstein?

We were surprised and blessed by a brief visit from Louie and Sheryl Stauffer, on their honeymoon, no less!


Each week is different. What will this week bring?

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Every Wednesday morning a group of retirees goes out hiking. A friend, Nicolas (third from left), invited me to join them. This week we took a bus out of Granada to this little town, Quéntar, from which we set off across the mountain.

This afforded us a magnificent view of Quéntar from higher up,

a look at the remains of a house probably several hundred years old,

an idea of how people make a living: olive and almond groves,

raising and herding sheep,

as well as goats.

Crossing the mountain afforded new views: more rugged terrain,

as well as picturesque views of the town to which we would arrive, against the majestic backdrop of the Sierra Nevada.

There was even a watering hole for humans. I tried to drink like Gideon's men.

The main street of Güéjar Sierra, our destination. From here, after some refreshments, we bused back down to Granada.

Lest you think all we do here is explore and hike, let me assure you that it ain't necessarily so! But southern Spain certainly is beautiful, and it reminds us of how great is our Creator.

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We've pretty much been in the city so far. Today, however, we went to see a friend who lives in a town an hour outside of Granada. As we were waiting for the bus to go to the bus station to get the out-of-town bus, we saw this bus. I hadn't seen a convertible bus before this one, have you?

In Guadix, the main town we visited, there is a whole barrio of cave-houses. It is said many caves in this area were originally made by the Moors 500 yrs. ago or so as places of refuge in the face of Catholic "christianization."

Nowadays, some of the caves are pretty fancy, with house fronts, patios, and even garages. Some have TV antennas, even satellite dishes, planted in the ground above or around the cave.

The insides don't look too shabby, either! They say the temperature inside is 68 degrees year-round.

Then we went to a place you dream about - an old castle on a hill. Jesus said a city on a hill cannot be hid.

Neither can a castle!

One gets the impression that 500 yrs. ago or so, when this castle was built, the wall may have stretched all around it.

On one side one can see a windmill farm, to harness the wind for electricity, There is often a stiff wind through this valley.

On the other side is the Sierra Nevada.

The castle, up close, looks imposing,

but not so imposing as the mountains in the distance.

Our host for the day was Connie Clark who grew up as a Mennonite in Montana, but has been in Spain with the Brethren for 30 yrs. Her husband, a church planter and Bible teacher, died suddenly of a heart attack 5 yrs. ago and is buried in the cemetery of the little town where they lived. Connie still lives there today.

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Life in Granada the past several weeks included language classes. Esther, our grammar teacher, is second from right.

María del Mar helped us with conversation,

and Jesús taught us about Spanish and Granada history, and for Judi, Spanish cooking, including some recipes.

During the two weeks of language study we stayed with María, who has become a good friend.

This is a view out of our fourth floor bedroom window in her apartment.

At the end of language study we found an apartment to rent. Mark & Charlene Troyer, who are part of our Shiloh support team, arrived the day we rented it and helped us, along with Kevin & Wendy, move in! M & C were on their way back to OH from a prayer journey in Albania.

One of the attractive features of the apartment is that it has a view of the Sierra Nevada through our dining room window.

We were able to tour the Alhambra with Mark & Charlene, Kevin & Wendy.

Construction on the Alhambra began some 1200 yrs. ago and was a fort/palace/city of primarily Muslims until conquered by the Spanish Catholic monarchs in 1492.

It’s imposing on the outside, but majestic, full of intricate design and beautiful gardens on the inside

There was time to relax over some churros con chocolate, of which Wendy was the winner in predicting the demise of Harv. (see earlier blogs),

and for Evan and Ellie to play with some puppies. Watch out there, Ellie, or that puppy may soon meet his demise, too!

We also spent half a day with Gary & Ruth Troyer and Ray & Ruth Miller, vacationing in Spain.

We visited the caves where people, some of them gypsies, actually live.

The first Saturday in May was the “day of the cross.” Crosses are decorated with flowers and set up in various parts of the city amidst antique relics.

Often on a table is an apple pierced with a scissors. A religious symbolism of this would be that the apple represents original sin and its consequences. A more secular version is a play on words: the apple is sometimes called a “pero,” which also means “but,” which how an excuse begins: but… So, the scissors is to cut out the excuses.

The celebration of the cross, according to the Church version, started with emperor Constantine’s mother, Elena, who supposedly went to Jerusalem in the 4th century and found the cross on which Jesus was crucified. (Remember Constantine’s vision: “In this cross you will conquer?”) So, a day was set aside to remember the cross. (The building in the background is the hostal where we stayed the first 10 days.)

Over the centuries most religious meaning has given way to secular celebrations, including dancing the “Sevillana” by children in gypsy costumes,

various music and dance troupes,

and the streets clogged with people!

In the middle of this fiesta is the procession of horses, ridden by people in traditional clothing (are there conservative Mennonites in Spain?!)

and trailers pulled by farm tractors, all eventually headed for the city of Huelva, the home of the Virgin of Rocío. The “brotherhoods” and religious societies which sponsor these traveling party booths, are the backbone of perpetuating many of the customs that were/are Church related, but for many have become a cultural expression and occasion for party and diversion, including lots of alcohol consumption!

Today we went to church, ate lunch at a Chinese restaurant with the Mayers, then came home to our apartment

where we relaxed

and enjoyed Judi’s Mother’s Day bouquet. This evening we hope to Skype with the family.

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