Holy Week in Granada
Holy Week in Granada
If you google for Holy Week events in Spain, you’ll no doubt come up with a variety of observations / photos / comments, and comments on the comments. I add mine to the list, acknowledging that this is my first time observing Holy Week here, and that from an onlooker perspective, not from a participant. The main feature of Holy Week seems to be centered around the daily processions – 35 official ones in Granada this year. These are organized by the “cofradías,” Catholic brotherhoods that provide group identity and keep the traditions alive, or at least in public view. It all begins on Palm Sunday afternoon.
Even the little people are engaged to depict Christ riding triumphantly into Jerusalem.
What are these hooded outfits? For an American like me, this immediately looks spooky and brings to mind the Ku Klux Klan, the white supremacist group in the USA. But bear in mind that the KKK was begun in 1866 and is a relative newcomer on the world scene. A cursory internet check could not verify if the white hooded robes of the Klan were copied from Spain, but my take is that most Spaniards could care less even if they were, as Spanish customs date back several centuries before the Klan. As closely as I can determine, groups of “penitents,” including flagellants, paraded during Holy Week celebrations in various parts of Europe from the 14th century on. During the Spanish Inquisition, sometimes the guilty were forced to wear pointed hats as a sign of their sin. Over the years, the hoods and “capirotes” (pointed hats) were incorporated into the Holy Week processions, these “penitents” being able to express their penance for sin while remaining anonymous. (To whom?) Who knows, in the modern processions, how many of the “penitents” are truly penitent or just maintaining a unique tradition? In addition, it seems the different hooded outfits give both an identity as well as make a fashion statement. If you can get over the KKK connection (by the way, the Klan is strongly anti-Catholic), you quickly notice other things, starting with the different colors. How about this blue/white combination?
Or the red/white one?
Green and white, anyone?
Or black?
Some processions incorporate military personnel.
And of course the officials of the cofradía and their crosses and symbols.
The incense bearers come before the float or “paso,
Which is the main feature of the procession. In each procession there are normally two, the first one a depiction of some passion scene involving Jesus. The "paso" can weigh over a ton, and is carried on the backs of “costaleros,” men (usually, though I did see one procession with girl “costaleras”) carrying it on their shoulders. There are from 24-40 costaleros packed in under each paso, depending on its weight and size. Each person would have to bear between 50 and 75 lbs. of the load. They walk with little centipede-like steps, which kind of makes the “paso” dance back and forth.
Sometimes the costaleros tie a cloth around the head, neck and shoulders for protection. There is a rest stop every couple hundred yards or so for water and to rotate in and out. It’s quite a “group experience,” which seems to fits the Spanish mentality.
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Turning corners is kind of trick and when it’s accomplished the observers applaud, as they do when, after a rest stop, the “paso” is raised with a jerk.
After the “paso” comes a band which helps keep the “costaleros” stepping in time as well as playing traditional tunes in keeping with Passion Week.
Then comes the "penitent" women dressed in black, the majority of which wear high heels – quite a feat for 6-8 hrs, sometimes over cobblestone streets.
Often some of the penitents carry crosses. But they don’t wear pointed hats, something I haven’t figured out yet.
The second float of each procession is usually of the virgin “watching,” behind lighted candles, over the rest of the proceedings up ahead.
Of course, the candles produce lots of wax, which some enterprising young boys try to collect – for what I don’t know.
Each procession passes before a public review stand, then on to the cathedral (pictured here) where they pay their due respects.
Some of the pasos are works of art, some quite old, and to take them out in the streets is a little like parading a painting by Rembrandt (maybe not quite!) out in public, especially when there's the threat of rain.
Some are rather ornate,
Some more simple (this one from the gypsy procession),
But all the cause of great crowds gathering to witness the spectacle. This particular day they estimated 180,000 people were in attendance in downtown Granada (great business for the bars and restaurants afterward!). There were 3 public processions on Easter, one of which we saw. The only difference between this one and the others during the week was that the main “paso” depicted Jesus alive and not dead or nearly so. Something is something!
Is all this driven by religious devotion, by tradition, by social pressure, by economic gain, or by an active faith in the life and love of Jesus, who this is all supposedly about, or none of the above? I don’t really know. It’s quite a spectacle, to be sure, but only God himself knows what is real and what is not. It’s probably best to let him be the judge, at this point.
Sunday morning there was a small procession up the hill beside the Alhambra, through an olive grove, to a pavilion overlooking the city,
Where Kevin, Wendy, Evan, Ellie, Judi and I celebrated the risen Lord in simple songs, scripture reading and prayer. Quite a contrast to the week before!
Then we retired to K & W’s place for a delicious brunch. We needed sustenance for the week and work ahead!
